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Just a dude who likes tacos.

Thursday, June 9, 2016

Problems Shifting? Check this first...

I have been having an increasingly harder time shifting gears for over a year now. After changing my gear oil and even having an aftermarket Exidy clutch installed, the issues persisted. Just a few days ago as of this post I was driving and completely unable to engage any gears while the car was on! Luckily I was on a low traffic road and could pull into a parking lot! If you are having similar issues then perhaps this might help.

I was inspecting my clutch pedal arm and noticed a hairline crack where the assembly bolts to the car (circled in red on the image). After some research this seems to be a known issue and causes similar problems as described above. You have two options, either replace the clutch pedal assembly or have the cracked portions re-welded. Ultimately I decided to buy a new assembly for $104 total on eBay.

Removing the pedal is actually very easy:
1. Disconnect & remove battery and battery tray
2. Find the 12m nut along the firewall that was blocked from view by the battery and remove it.
3. Stretch!
4. Under the dash you'll need to remove two 12mm bolts that connect the assembly to the car. Remove those two bolts.
5. There are two plugs attached to the pedal; the white one can be removed with a small flat head.
6.The brown colored one will need to be twisted and popped off with a small pry tool, like a very thin flat head or door panel removal tool (what I used).
7. Finally, remove the black wire that is connected by using the same prying tool to pop off the plastic rivet holding the wire to the clutch pedal.

With the old clutch pedal assembly out, you'll want to remove the rectangular black piece with the grey button that is attached to the arm as seen in the picture. This is the clutch interlock switch. When you push on the clutch pedal, the brown button presses the switch in which tells the car the clutch pedal is down (used for starting and for cruise control). You'll need to bend the black arm that brown button is attached to slightly forward as it will NOT engage the switch when re-installed. 

 Also, INSPECT YOUR LOWER MOTOR MOUNT!  If it is cracked/broken, replace it asap! Mine had actually been overdue for replacement and was to blame for some serious transmission problems.








Sunday, April 26, 2015

DIY: Plasti-Dip Rims

Here's a quick post about my results with plasti-dipping my rims...with Rustoleum FlexiDip (because plasti-dip was sold out). This costs about $13; two cans of your color choice PlastiDip and a 100 pack of index cards.



Started by thoroughly cleaning your rims to remove as much dirt and grime as possible. Next, cover your rotors with newspaper and taped it on tight. Place index cars around the rim where is meet the tire. Also, take off your valve caps and cover the threads with tape.


Do a light first coat, just enough to cover the rim. Make sure to get all sides of the rim.



Do about four to five coats with about five to ten minutes between each coat, maybe less. Clean up and replace your valve caps.